The Outer Banks of North Carolina
It was still pitch black dark when Capt. Hank Beasley climbed up to the bridge of the 53ft. Paul Mann sport fisherman, “True Grit” and turned the ignition key. The big 900hp GM 1271 diesel coughed, belched black smoke and sprang to life. The black smoke was actually a GOOD thing, as it ran off the zillion mosquitoes that were hanging around the cockpit. Little did I know what a GREAT days fishing I had in store… But let’s go back to the beginning of this story.
My wife Patsy is a real “Beach Bum”. She could lie on the beach all day long, every day for a month. Me? I like the beach, and I must admit that I enjoy sitting in my big comfy chair, under an umbrella, listening to my CD player, drinkin’ Margaritas, reading a good book, and checking out the beach “Scenery”. But there is such a thing as “too much of a good thing”. I can’t sit still for very long, and I have to be up doing something. FISHING is the FIRST something that comes to mind most of the time. Sometimes it’s EATING!
The “Outer Banks of North Carolina” are a chain of islands off the northern end of North Carolina’s east coast. They begin just below Norfolk, Virginia and run south to Ocracoke Inlet. There are more islands south of here, but they are not considered part of the “Outer Banks”. The islands form Currituck Sound, Albermarle Sound, Pamlico Sound, and part of the Intracoastal Waterway. The area is most famous as the place where the Wright brothers made their first flight in a powered aircraft, but there is much more to the area. I won’t get into all of the history… Like the “Lost Colony”, “Fort Raleigh”, and such. After all, this IS a FISHING site and I know you are dying to hear about this adventure.
After a couple of days, I had experienced all of the “fun on the beach” I could stand, so one afternoon, I headed down to “Oregon Inlet Fishing Center”, to watch the big shiny charter boats return with their days catch. As they backed into their slips, moored their boats, and tossed scores of big Tuna and Dolphin onto the dock, it was more than I could stand. I found myself at the “Booking” counter, inquiring about a charter. All of the small boat, inshore guides were booked for the remainder of the week, and I couldn’t afford to charter one of the big boats by myself. The lady behind the counter suggested a “Make-Up Charter”. That’s where you put your name on a list and the powers that be match you up with five other anglers to form a charter party. The cost is only one-sixth of the total fee per person, but you run the risk of being partied with one or more bozos you would not normally want to spend a day on the ocean with. It took me all of two minutes to decide to throw caution to the wind and hope for the best. I plopped down my deposit and filled out the necessary forms.
The next afternoon, I called the fishing center and checked on the status of my application. I had been paired with five other anglers and we had been assigned to the charter boat “True Grit” (you do not have a choice of boat) and all was ready for the next days fishing. I stopped by the boat that evening and introduced myself to the mate and captain. I must admit… I was a little apprehensive about fishing from a “Lavender” colored boat. I didn’t know WHAT kind of harassment I would get from my buddies back home. But actually it was a very attractive and well built sport fisherman, comfortable, wide, and well equipped. I just KNEW I was going to have a GREAT trip. All I had to do was check in at the booking office at 5:00am “Dark” the next morning.
I was like a kid at Christmas and had a hard time getting to sleep that night. It had been a long time since I had been on a Tuna expedition, and I was looking forward to it with much anticipation. I was also wondering what the other five guys would be like, or would one or more of them be ladies??? Did I have everything ready?? Would the alarm clock go off? Did I pack enough food and drink? Will we catch anything, or would it be one of those “You should have been here yesterday” outings??
The alarm DID go off at 3:30am, and I stumbled out of bed. The water for a good cup of tea was getting hot while I took a cold shower, trying to wake my mind and body. After a quick cup of tea, I packed my drinks and food into the ice chest, grabbed my “gear bag” and headed out the door. The desk clerk gave me a puzzled look as I stepped off the elevator… “Goin’ fishin’” I offered, and he nodded knowingly.
I arrived at the “Oregon Inlet Fishing Center” at 4:30am. There was no one on the boat, there was no one at the store, and the booking office had not yet opened. I sat in the Jimmy and ate my donuts and milk and watched as the mates, one by one, backed their pickup trucks up to the loading dock and picked up from four to twelve large bags of ice. The place was starting to come alive and now several of the day’s anglers were milling around the store entrance. The store and booking office finally opened at 5:00am and I was about number two in line to check in. I hurried over to the boat, knowing that the fishing order (who gets to fight the first fish, second fish, third fish and so on) was established by the order you report to the boat… And I wanted to be FIRST! Just in case we only caught ONE fish that day.
Shawn Hooper, a life long native of the outer banks, for all of his twenty-some-odd years, was on the boat, preparing the rods, reels and lures for the day’s activity. Shawn would prove to be one of the hardest working, most courteous, polite, knowledgeable, seasoned and experienced charter boat mates I have ever had the pleasure of fishing with. One of the BEST in my experience! We stowed my small ice chest and gear bag, and I made myself comfortable in one of the three fighting chairs in the cockpit of the “True Grit”. While chatting with Shawn and swatting mosquitoes, the other members of the party arrived and we headed out of the slip and into the channel about 5:30am.
It didn’t take long for Capt. Hank to clear the “No Wake” zone and punch those 900 horses into action. We roared down the channel, under the Oregon Inlet Bridge and out into the open Atlantic, following, and followed by, other charter boats in the fleet.
I introduced myself around to the other members of our little group and got to know them a little bit. There was Chet “Catch the Little Ones” Anthony, from Yorktown, Virginia. He owned a management consulting firm there and was a real likeable guy. His son, Chris “Sea Sick” Anthony, from Mebane, NC, accompanied him. Scott Hughes, from Pittsburg, PA, was a Lieutenant (comparable rank as Army Captain) in the Navy, and an instructor in the ROTC program. His father-in-law, Vic “Big Fish” Redden, a sales rep for Sea Ray Boat Company, from Denton, Maryland had joined him for this outing. Last, but not least was Steve “The Hulk” Bernardo, a big, brawny body builder and sales rep for Kodiak Tobacco products, from Rocky Mount, NC, rounded out our group. Steve is an avid off shore angler and came in handy for blocking out the sun and giving me some shade to hide in. They turned out to be a great bunch of guys to fish with, AND they didn’t really have all of those “nicknames”. I just gave them to each, based on his day’s performance and personality. Gee… Hope they all have a good sense of humor??
After a one-and-a-half-hour boat ride, we arrived at our fishing destination, some 40 odd miles off the coast of North Carolina. Shawn began putting out lines and baits. Mostly squid imitations with fresh ballyhoo attached. There would be twelve lines in all, from the outriggers, stern lines, flat lines, etc. Shawn had not completed setting the lines when one of the rods bowed double and the drag screamed as line was peeled from the reel. I jumped into the center fighting chair and Shawn handed me the rod. After a brief, but frantic battle, Shawn gaffed my prize Black Fin Tuna and flung him into the fish box.
Other lures were struck in rapid succession and we boated 26 Tuna by 10:00am. We released all but the top eighteen fish, which was our daily limit. Most of the Tuna ranged from about 20 pounds, up to about 50 pounds. A LOT of Tuna Steaks and Tuna Salad, no matter HOW you slice it!
We hauled in the Tuna baits and replaced all of the rod and reel combos and the lures with Dolphin and Marlin rigs. NO… NOT the “Flipper” Dolphin… The “Mahi-Mahi” kind of Dolphin. We ran a little further south and set-up to troll for Marlin and Dolphin the remainder of the day. It wasn’t long before a voice came over the radio and informed Capt. Hank that their boat was into a large school of Dolphin, and to “come on down”. We quickly reeled in the lines and lures and frantically put away the Marlin rigs and got out the Dolphin tackle, while the Captain raced toward the other boat.
Capt. Hank eventually pulled the “True Grit” alongside the “Carolinian” and we observed anglers in their party boat a couple of nice sized Dolphin (Again… These are the Mahi-Mahi Dolphin… NOT “Flipper”). It didn’t take Shawn long to bait up our hooks and start chumming with bits of the one Bonita we had managed to catch in amongst the Tuna that morning.
The object is to first attract a school of fish. Then toss baited hooks into the water, hoping to catch one of the multicolored “bullets” zipping around the stern of the boat. The first fish hooked is kept in the water, which helps to attract others and “turn them on” sort of. As the second fish is hooked, the first one is boated and put in the fish box. When the third fish is hooked, the second fish is boated, and so on. We lined up with three anglers on each side of the boat and started hooking Dolphin one after the other. Mate Shawn stood at the center of the transom and removed fish from hooks as fast as he could. That angler would then grab a piece of bait and return to the back of the line, on his side of the boat. For over an hour, we hooked fish, boated them, rotated with the other party members, and operated like a well choreographed dance team. Except when Chet “Little Fish” Anthony decided more fish were being caught on MY side of the boat and kind of nudged me out of my rotation. I moved over to the port side and resumed catching fish in spite being “dislocated”. I guess it was the FISHERMAN and NOT the FISH that was the problem over there?? But all was in fun, and we were having a “BALL”!
The Captain, standing on the flying bridge, had a better view of the action and the surrounding water than we did. He soon spotted a BIG Dolphin hiding under a large board that was floating off to our starboard side. I grabbed the “Pitch Rod”, baited with a whole fresh Ballyhoo, and tossed the bait near the floating board. It took about one-and-a-half seconds for the big “Cow” to grab my bait, and it was off to the races. After a rather hectic and aerobatic battle, Shawn gaffed the 25 pound-plus golden beauty.
At 1:00 o’clock, Capt. Hank yelled down from the bridge, and asked everyone to catch “one more” fish, and then we had to head in… We had a two hour, fifty mile run back to Oregon Inlet Fishing Center. We complied with the Cap’s wishes… The fish box was full to the brim anyhow.
All the way back to the dock, I sat in one of the fighting chairs, relaxing and thinking about the days events. It had been one of the most thrilling days of fishing I had ever experienced. On the way out that morning, we had spotted a couple of huge whales, gently swimming along. They would come up for a breath of air, “blow”, and disappear again, into the deep. And at one time, we had a HUGE Hammerhead Shark, hanging around behind our boat, hoping to pick up an easy meal of a hooked Tuna. These are the things that are MOST important to me. Not necessarily the fishing itself!
For those of you who have never experienced the thrill of battling a huge Tuna on relatively light tackle, or the hectic circus of attracting and catching a hungry school of Mahi-Mahi, you DON’T know WHAT you are MISSING. We ended the day with our limit of eighteen Tuna, and sixty-three nice Mahi. I don’t know WHAT ELSE one could ask for?
We returned to the fishing center that afternoon around 3:00 o’clock. Shawn hosed down the dock and tossed our catch out of the fish box, for all of the one-hundred or so spectators who gather each afternoon to see the return of the fishing fleet. We attracted the largest crowd, since our boat had the biggest and best catch of the day. Understandable results considering the experience and knowledge of our Captain and Mate. We all posed for the customary photos and gathered up our gear. The “Cleaning Crew” arrived in short order and loaded our fish onto their pick-up truck, and hauled them over to the “Cleaning House”. We had a total of 689 pounds of fish… “On the hoof”… That would yield approximately 60 pounds of Tuna fillets and 20 pounds of Mahi-Mahi per angler.
I can and DO highly recommend that you sample the fishing on your next trip to the Outer Banks of North Carolina. It is an experience you will never forget! You can contact Capt. Hank directly, if you have a party of your own, or you can sign up for a “Make-Up Charter” and take your chances of being assigned one of the other boats in the fleet.
The fishing in that area is FANTASTIC and the season runs from the beginning of April all the way to the end of November. You can bet I will be back in early November to sample the fall Tuna bite! The White and Blue Marlin bite was just beginning and runs throughout the summer. Sailfish, Big Eye Tuna, Yellowfin Tuna, Wahoo, Dolphin, King Mackerel and Cobia are some of the other species available off shore throughout the year.
Outer Banks of North Carolina - TRIP CHECK
Location: The “Outer Banks” are located about one-and-one-half hours drive south of Norfolk, Virginia, on the eastern shore of North Carolina, and is easily accessible from any point in the US.
Directions: From the North: Follow I-95 South to Richmond, Virginia. Take I-64 East toward Williamsburg/Norfolk/Virginia Beach, Virginia. Just west of Norfolk, take the 664 bypass to Chesapeake, Virginia. Go south on Route 168, the “Chesapeake Expressway”. Once in North Carolina, Route 168 turns into US Route 158 East. Follow this road to the “Outer Banks” and offshore fishin’ heaven.
From the South: Take I-95 to Wilson, North Carolina. Take US-64 East toward Rocky Mount, NC. Follow US-64 East through Williamston and Plymouth, NC. From Plymouth, NC, keep going east to Roanoke Island and The Outer Banks.
When to go: The fishing season runs from April 1 until the end of November. Different species are available at different times during the season. Check with Capt. Hank, or the “Oregon Inlet Fishing Center” for information on “what’s biting” when you intend to visit The Outer Banks. The months of June, July and August are some of the busiest and you will want to book you “fishing experience” well in advance. These are also the BIG tourist months and there are FAR more people in the area then.
Where to fish: There are MANY opportunities in The Outer Banks for the adventurous angler. Surf fishing, pier fishing, head boat, offshore, nearshore and inshore guides and charters, and a BUNCH of freshwater ponds and lakes for the BASS angler. Some of my FAVORITE places include…
Oregon Inlet Fishing Center: The marina hosts the largest and most modern fishing fleet on the Eastern Seaboard. They are located a short drive from Nags Head on NC Route 12, and within sight of the Oregon Inlet. Booking and fishing from this location will save you a LONG boat ride from any one of the other marinas in the area, as there is very limited access to the ocean from inshore. The center also offers marine and automotive fuels and lubricants; complete Ship’s Store; Gift Shop; Tackle Shop; Ice; Dry Ice and a complete fish cleaning and packaging service. A friendly and knowledgeable staff, their top-notch fleet of boats and their GREAT location, makes the Oregon Inlet Fishing Center THE place to go for the fishing experience of a lifetime.
PHONE: 252-441-6301 or 800-272-5199
WEB ADDRESS: oregon-inlet@outer-banks.com or www.oregon-inlet.com
Nags Head Pier: A great fishing pier located on Beach Road at Mile Marker 12 in Nags Head. Tackle sales and rental, ice, snacks, souvenirs and good advice are available here.
PHONE: 252-441-5141
Kitty Hawk Pier: Mile Post 2 in Kitty Hawk. PHONE: 252-261-2772
Avalon Pier: Mile Post 6 in Kitty Hawk. PHONE: 252-441-7494
Public Boat Ramps:
National Park Service Ramp – At Oregon Inlet, behind the fishing center.
Dare County Ramp – Located on Old Ferry Dock Road in the Village of Mann’s Harbor.
Fish and Wildlife Ramp – Located off of Mashoes Road in the Village of Mann’s Harbor.
Fish and Wildlife Ramp – Located off of Bowsertown Road in the town of Manteo.
There are MANY other ramps in the area. Check the available promotional literature.
Surf Fishing: For the surfcaster there are over 100 miles of accessible beach. Driving on the beach and surf fishing can be loads of fun, but where beach driving is permitted, there are rules to follow. The standard speed limit is 25 mph. Enter and leave the beach only at designated, open ramps. Drive only on that portion of the beach which lies between the foot of the dunes and the ocean. Check with the National Park Service and the individual towns along the coast for complete a list of required equipment, rules and regulations.
Charter Boats: There are a baa-zillion charter boats available in the Hatteras, Nags Head area, at a variety of marinas and docks. I list the ones I have had personal experience with and personally recommend to you.
“True Grit”: Captained by Hank Beasley, with over 23 years of fishing experience, this 53 foot custom built Paul Mann boat, constructed in the local area, is one of the finest boats in the fleet. It has a wide beam and handles rough water like a Dolphin. It is powered by a single 1271 GM diesel engine sporting 900 hp and cruises at 24 knots. It has a clean and comfortable head, air-conditioning, TV/VCR and microwave. It is equipped with all of the best and latest electronic and safety gear. The boat sports three fighting chairs or you can choose to fight your fish “Stand-Up” if you wish. They use the finest quality Penn Fishing Tackle that is kept in tip-top condition. Mate Shawn Hooper has grown up in the area and been involved in the fishing industry all of his life. Polite, energetic, hard working, knowledgeable, courteous and lots of fun are characteristics that make this young man one of the BEST mates I have had the pleasure of fishing with. You will NOT be disappointed fishing aboard the “True Grit”.
PHONE: 252-473-5618
WEB ADDRESS: www.obxtruegrit.com
Where to stay
The Nags Head Inn: Located right on the beach, at Mile Post 14, this is where my wife and I spend our time at The Outer Banks. I would place it at the upper end of the accommodations scale, where the rooms are large and clean, and amenities include under cover parking, an indoor pool, sun deck, refrigerators in rooms, free coffee and microwave use in the lobby, Cable color TV with HBO, a great private beach and a friendly and courteous staff make The Nags Head Inn my choice.
PHONE: 800-327-8881 or 252-441-0454
WEB ADDRESS: www.NagsHeadInn.com
Holiday Inn Express: Ocean front location in Kitty Hawk. Private beach access, refrigerators and microwave in rooms, color cable TV with HBO, complimentary breakfast bar, large spacious rooms and an outdoor season pool with deck are just some of the features here.
PHONE: 800-836-2753 or 252-261-4888
Miller’s Oceanfront Motel: Enjoy clean well-maintained accommodations represented by a friendly knowledgeable staff. Miller’s Oceanfront Motel offers a family atmosphere where you can really feel at home with the Atlantic Ocean at your door. They offer one and two bedroom efficiencies, plus a seven-bedroom cottage and several two-bedroom cottages. Amenities include a king-sized pool and a playground for the kids, cable color TV, refrigerators and microwave in rooms, and daily maid service. Locate on the Beach Road at Mile Post 9.5 in Kill Devil Hills.
PHONE: 877-625-6343 or 252-441-7404
Where to EAT: Now you’re talking MY language! There are more restaurants, bar and grills, crab houses, snack bars and eating establishments in The Outer Banks than there are fleas in a flea circus. Some of them GREAT… Some of them GOOD… And some of them NOT so GOOD. I will list the ones I have personal experience with and can personally recommend.
Owen’s Restaurant: Located on the Beach Road at mile post 16.5 at Nags Head, and accessible from the Rte. 158 bypass road, Owen’s Restaurant is the personal favorite of both my wife and myself. Classic southern coastal cuisine to the cutting edge flavors of today. Daily specials, seafood, whole Maine Lobster, Angus beef, pasta, ribs, veal and lamb are some of the specialties offered here. The Prime Rib I have had here… If it is not the BEST I have ever had in all my LIFE… It SURELY is in the top THREE. And the Lobster Bisque? I could eat a GALLON of it! And their DESSERT offerings?? NOW your’re talking! WOW! No reservations!
PHONE: 252-441-7309
Tale of the Whale: Located on Rte. 158 on the Manteo/Nags Head Causeway, this is another of my personal favorites. Seafood, steaks, prime rib, vegetarian menu, and more are the specialties of the house. A great view of the bay and live entertainment too.
PHONE: 252-441-7332
RV’S Restaurant: Located at mile post 16.5 on the Manteo/Nags Head Causeway, just a stones throw from Whalebone Junction, RV’S has the BEST Calimari I have had on the Outer Banks. Situated right on the water, with a great view of the bay, it offers fine cuisine in a relaxed and casual atmosphere, perfect for the entire family. Celebrating 21 years of great food and sunsets.
PHONE: 252-441-4963
Jockey’s Ribs: OH YEAH… Lip-smackin’-0taste-bud-pleasin’-Bar-B-Q with that Southern touch. One of the best Seafood Bisques… That make you want to wipe the bowl with bread… AND I DO! They are located on the Beach Road at mile post 13, in Nags Head. They feature ribs, chicken, steaks and seafood with that Carolina flair.
PHONE: 252-441-1141
The Wharf: “The Triple Treet”… Enjoy one of the best and biggest seafood buffets on the beach; order from the menu; or use the “Take Out” service. Located on the Beach Road, in Nags Head, at mile post 11.5, The Wharf is THE place for families, large parties, or a group of fishermen who LOVE TO EAT! Celebrating 31 years of service!
PHONE: 252-441-7457
Where to LOOK: There is a WEALTH of information available for anyone interested in visiting The Outer Banks. Some include…
The official travel web site for The Outer Banks… www.outerbanks.org
The Outer Banks Visitors Center… 800-446-6262 or 877-BY-THE-SEA
In Conclusion: If you tire of lazing on the beautiful beaches of The Outer Banks, and yearn to do something different with you time, there are a ZILLION choices for you… From art galleries, souvenir shops, and historic attractions. Some I HIGHLY recommend are… The Wright Brother National Memorial; Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge; North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island; North Carolina Maritime Museum; Fort Raleigh National Historic Site; The Lost Colony Outdoor Drama play; The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse; One of the many “Dolphin Watch” tours and LOTS of bird watching opportunities. The list goes on and on! Have a GREAT visit to The Outer Banks of NC.
Tight Lines,
Will Whitehead
"Pro Staff" Director
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